Two Nights in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania (Faux France)

Our very short vacation turned out to be three days in one the most Parisian cities in America: Philadelphia. This 2021 mini-trip to Philadelphia was short on hassle and long on fun things to do with kids or without, even during a global pandemic. I hope my Philly readers are inspired to vacation close to home, and I hope my out-of-town friends will visit soon.

We planned a one-day trip, but we had such a great time that we extended a night at the Sonesta hotel on 18th and Market, which is a very walkable part of the city. For about $200 per night, we got a modern room in an art-themed hotel with a pool. The staff was great, but really it was all about the pool, since it was in the high 90’s while we were there. We took a SEPTA train from our home in the ‘burbs to Suburban Station, only a block from the hotel, so it’s very easy to get to.

Philly is a food town, so be prepared to eat. And please, for God’s sake, don’t go to a national chain restaurant while you are here. There are too many great local options, like the chicken and waffles at Sabrina’s Cafe on 18th and Callowhill.

We happened upon a fun Philly tradition: Le Dîner en Blanc. Started over 33 years ago in France, it’s an elegant party with hundreds of picnickers, all dressed in white, descending onto a public space. People register a year in advance, but the location is very secret until hours before the event. We watched the crowd line up, walk to, and then take over Rittenhouse Square on Thursday night.

Anyone who happened to be near the Square enjoyed the Dîner en Blanc concert, and even some street performers, like these cancan dancers. Paris, I miss you!

When we are in Paris, we make daily stops at Amorino’s Gelato. In Philadelphia, our faux France for the weekend, we enjoyed rolled ice cream (it’s a thing) at Sweet Charlie’s on the corner of Rittenhouse Square.

Visiting Rittenhouse Square Park again the next day, we saw a very French flower market and a huge farmer’s market, but the park itself was as clean and open as ever. With it’s Victorian guardhouse, large fountain, and lovely trees shading loads of public benches, it feels very much like a French park.

If this corner flower market doesn’t transport you right to Paris, I don’t know what will.

When you visit Philadelphia, there’s one thing you MUST do: park your car and walk as much as you can! Each numbered block is 1/10th of a mile, so it’s roughly two miles from the Delaware river on the east to the Schuylkill river on the west side, but you’ll miss so much if you are in your car. Most of the sights can be visited on the Philly Phlash bus, which is $2 per ride, or $5 to ride all day. SEPTA pass and key card holders ride FREE. Phlash bus service resumed May 2021. It’s a smaller bus, was never completely packed, is air-conditioned, and required masks for everyone, so it worked for us on a very hot day, and goes right past the fountains on the Ben Franklin Parkway past the Art Museum.

If you only have a couple of days in Philadelphia, there are places you must visit! It’s the law, or nearly so. Be sure to check with each venue as the pandemic continue to see what their hours and offerings are. This is still a fluid situation, and you have to be flexible.

Visit Independence Hall if you are from out of town. We didn’t go inside this time, since we’ve done it before, but I still always love to walk by it and The Liberty Bell, which is in a beautiful pavilion just next door.

We visited the Museum of the American Revolution on this trip. My daughter is a huge fan of Hamilton, the musical, so she was really into it. Don’t miss the shows every hour featuring George Washington’s tent. I know, how exciting can a canvas tent be, right? It was oddly moving!

Just around the corner from the museum, we tried bubble tea at Panda Tea on 2nd Street. My daughter decided that she didn’t like the tapioca pearls, so I enjoyed two bubble teas. Lucky me!

You don’t really have to think ahead to your next meal in Philly, unless you want to eat outside. We noticed this ramen restaurant a block from the hotel and dinner was decided! Everything can be ordered ahead on an app or directly at the restaurant for pickup.

One of my favorite places in the city in City Hall. You can walk right through from all our directions into the inner courtyard, but this trip we played in Dilworth Plaza on the west side of the building. There are spray parks for the kids (and the young at heart), inviting swings and cafe tables, and a Starbucks with window service.

Love Park is directly across the street from Dilworth Plaza. There is another spray park there, plenty of cafe tables, and beautiful outdoor restaurant. With the famous LOVE statue, Love Park is more fun when there is something going on there, like the Christmas Market, but if you’ve never been, you at least have to take your picture under this iconic statue.

I have lived in Philadelphia a very long time, and when I moved here, the bike trail that ran south stopped at the art museum. But now, it runs along the east side of the Schuylkill river connecting the Art Museum area to South Philly. We walked from Rittenhouse Square to the Locust Street trail entrance, and were graciously served water at Ambrosia Restaurant. This cute spot has a quiet, local neighborhood feel.

Once you pass onto the trail, it’s wide and beautiful, with benches, banks for picnics, and even a water fountain along the way.

Approaching the Art Museum from the south, we saw a skate park I’ve never noticed before. It’s not my thing, but it’s fun to watch the skateboarders and bikers test their skills.

We took the Philly Phlash bus back to the historic part of town, and wrapped up our trip with a visit to Franklin Park. I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve driven by this park a million times and I never realized how lovely it is. The center fountain has fun choreographed shows each half hour. There is a carousel (very French!) that costs only $2 per ride. The snack bar serves a full picnic menu and ice cream. The playground is large and well-appointed. The bathrooms are clean and free. There is even a beer-garden with a menu and live music. We enjoyed the Philly-themed mini-golf with holes the included the “Rocky steps” and the Eagles themes. I think the garage parking at the Visitor Center just two blocks away is the way to go. Buy your mini-golf tickets there, and ask for a break on your parking fees. I’m looking forward to visiting for the next Chinese Lantern Festival in Franklin Park.

Here are my top 5 places to visit if you’ve never been to Philadelphia before:

1. Liberty Bell
2. Independence Hall
3. Art Museum (Rocky steps optional)
4. Rittenhouse Square Park
5. Phillies game

Here are my top 5 places to visit if you’ve already done the tourist spots above:

1. Franklin Square Park
2. Schuylkill River Trail, including Boathouse Row just north of the Art Museum
3. Museum of the American Revolution
4. Dilworth Plaza and a City Hall tower or architecture tour if you have time
5. Walk the Center City area between Market and Walnut streets, Broad Street to 20th.

So many pictures…so little time. Thanks for joining me in one of my favorite cities, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. I hope you are getting a vacation soon, but if not, I hope this gave you a little escape. Wishing for longer trips like I am? Check out my Paris “diet plan” here, or what to pack for a long trip to Paris here, or a 6-minute trip to Australia and New Zealand here.